The Gozo Citadel - a mystery to be discovered
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Veronica Barbara
BA (Hons) Arch.
A day-visit to sister island Gozo is definitely a must during a stay in Malta, especially if one would like to escape the hectic daily routine on the main island. However Gozo offers more than simply a relaxing atmosphere. The history and culture enshrined in the various sites and buildings that are scattered all over this small island are of a magnitude one would not really perceive before visiting.
One of these gems to be discovered is the Citadel in Victoria. Archaeological remains revealed that this promontory was already inhabited during Roman times. Subsequently, during the Medieval era, the castrum, as it was referred to at the time, formed with Rabat the main proper settlement of Gozo. It is mentioned in documents as from around 1240AD and was the only defence the Gozitans could enjoy, up till additions (albeit limited) by the Knights of St John in the 16th century.
In fact, the Knights of St John, who came to the Maltese Islands in 1530, were not really interested in the small island of Gozo. At first, anything outside the harbour area was too far away from their headquarters to merit defence or building projects. Eventually this started to change and we know that by the late 16th and early 17th centuries modernizing works started on the citadel which included building more fortifications as well as equipping the defenders stationed there with more weapons and ammunition.
Nowadays the citadel has two entrances. The largest one which leads to the open space in front of the cathedral was opened in the twentieth century. The original entrance is situated further to the right and is much smaller, leading the visitor to a narrow street and a building with a highly ornate balcony. This seventeenth century building, Casa Bondi, houses the Gozo Museum of Archaeology managed by Heritage Malta. Exhibited are archaeological artefacts from all over the island of Gozo, from prehistoric times up to the early modern period. Other interesting museums set up within the walls of the citadel include the Museum of Natural Science and the Folklore Museum (both managed by Heritage Malta). The cathedral also deserves a visit, especially due to the trompe l'oeil by Antonio Pippi which creates the illusion of a dome in a fantastic manner.
It is still a special experience even if one opts to just walk along the fortification walls and through the narrow streets of the city, encountering particular architectural features, some of which reflect the Arab occupation of the island. The area at the very back of the city is particularly fascinating as it is truly a ruin of the medieval city, still unexcavated and hiding so much information about the mysterious medieval era. One hopes that future excavation works in the area will reveal details about the history of the Gozo citadel to add to the intriguing timeline of the Island.
If you would like to spend a day in Gozo and visit the Citadel, it is necessary to reach the Cirkewwa harbour and catch a ferry to Gozo's Mgarr harbour. There are regular busses from Qawra (Seashells Resort at Suncrest) and St. Paul's Bay to Cirkewwa. From Mgarr it is easy to reach Victoria/Rabat using public transport. From Victoria/Rabat one simply walks up towards the fortified promontory overlooking the market area (referred to by locals as it-Tokk).
References and further reading
Malta - The Medieval Millenium: A "Malta's Living Heritage" publication, written by Charles Dalli (2006)
Malta - The Order of St John: A "Malta's Living Heritage" publication, written by Thomas Freller (2010)
The official website for the Gozo Cathedral Parish: www.gozocathedral.org.mt
Heritage Malta's official website: www.heritagemalta.org
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